Archive for November, 2007

Seoul Man

So like Dean, this is my first solo post. There will be less pictures than usual here due to the fact that my photos are from a throwaway camera and I have not developed them properly. I have however nicked some of Rodds. I stayed in Seoul with my friend Lena who I used to go to University with in Guildford. She teaches English there and lives with her husband, Rodd, who is a professional Skateboarder.

Seoul and South Korea in general is a funny old place. It’s very modern and wealthy, and the girls don’t wear much, yet it is palpably sexist in many ways and Confucian orders reign supreme (listen to your bosses/elders/husbands folks). Also it’s oddly homophobic, Korean for AIDS translates as “Gay Plague”, yet at the same time I saw two riot police holding hands. Lukily for me I’m straight and a man so I had a great time.

While in Seoul I played Baseball, went cycling and played glow in the dark nighttime bowling. The baseball left me sore all over for 4 days and the cycling for 2. The bowling however was loads of fun, even if myself and Lena both really suck skills wise.

Check out the action photo, look at the streamlined perfection in the bodyline, the grace and beauty. I’m sure that was a strike, well maybe it was a spare, look I at least got one pin down, OKAY.

I also went out partying on several different nights in very different surroundings, sometimes with Dean too. At one point I drank rum with a massive Iraqi, at another I discussed Shakespeare with a Jordanian-American actress.

We also met up again with Jeremy, the Canadian member of Team Trailblazers from our Mongolian Leg. We stayed at his pad and went out with him in Itaewan. We went to a few clubs which was fun. At one club we found several attractive young ladies who were really friendly with us. It took us 20 minutes to realise we were in a brothel and they were ladies of the night.

Kids; a brothel is a type of Cheese sandwich and a Lady of the Night is kind of like a toothfairy but you keep the tooth and lose the 50p.

All in all I had a thoroughly ace time in Seoul, totally different to the rest of my trip. I also did Noraebang karaoke with a Korean Italian American Squaddie;

and best of all Lena lent me her Scooter so I got to drive!

Seoul was great, and Lena and Rodd were fantastic hosts. But I had another friend in the south of the country in a town called Busan, so myself and Dean decided to team up again to go and visit her.

Pouring out my Seoul

This I feel has to be a different type of blog post, I’ve been wondering about what to post for the past few days. South Korea was very different from the previous countries: for a start, Tom and I stayed in separate places (There were tears* as we parted at the Metro station), we didn’t have any plans to visit any of the sights, and finally we went to visit friends, which led to a much more ‘social’ few weeks.

I visited the rather incredible human being that goes by the name of Jamie Carter; although like most Super Heroes, he uses that title to fit in with the surrounding public. Least we not forget his man-at-arms, and fellow house mate, Kim-Lee; who has shot many a gun as well as teaching female models the fine art of the English language.

 

See how Jamie takes on the role of a small child, such wonderful powers.

The first week in Seoul was basically a test of social endurance, fueled by South Korea’s wonderful cuisine and selection of drinks, mainly the potent Soju. The food, and the ritual that surrounds it is fantastic; it’s so easy to see why the people in China always gave it praise whenever we told them that Korea was our next destination.

The basic set up of the table as can be seen above is the central grill, where the meat (Beef or Pork) or other foodstuffs such as garlic cloves or even Kimchi can be cooked. The whole thing is very hands-on, as the food is cooked by the people round the table, each looking after the meat as it’s cooked (or as sometimes happens, burns). The eating is the next fun part as you don’t have a plate. Instead you take a leaf from the basket (Lettuce or Sesame) and place it in your hand. You then use chopsticks to take a piece of freshly cooked meat from the grill, before dipping it into one of the sauces and finally placing it into the cupped leaf. You then add some extra bits to garnish before wrapping the leaf up into a pocket like shape and eating it whole.

It’s a very healthy meal (I’m sure you’ll all be so glad to hear), and along with a few drinking games (Titanic!) makes for a really fun social event.

So the food and the Soju played a large part in our Korean experience, as did the people. We met back up with fellow Trail Blazer Jeremy, who’d previously returned to Seoul to find more teaching work. It was great meeting up again, as we have found so often on this trip, friendships are so quickly forged, and meeting up with someone that you may have only spent a day or even a few hours with before, can feel like a reunion of Cilla Black proportions. So meeting back up with Jeremy, whom we’d Blazed through Mongolia and in to Beijing with was fantastic.

We took a trip out for the day to pick up some needed supplies for our onward journey. Tom wanted to find out about getting a new passport as his now has less than a year left, we also needed to find out about obtaining an Australian working visa, and most importantly we were desperately in need of some new Warcraft books.

Like Beijing, Seoul has a fantastic public transport system, with a very regular bus and metro service- Take note UK.

As you can see from the books in my hand, and the spring in my stride as I walk over the arch, Seoul came good with the Warcraft books; our geekhood was saved for the onward journey.

Technically taken in Britain, we visited the bar inside the embassy, again important things to note here are the selection of Warcraft books and also the poppy, which we managed to find in the embassy lobby area.

I’m going to have to mention one more social night before trying to redeem myself and show that this isn’t all just a louts holiday in the guise of world culture hunting. This night was the evening of the Noraebang a Karaoke sing-a-thon in a private room, well sort of private, apart from the giant window on to the street outside.

Fuelled by our old friends Vodka and Tequilla, I partook in an event that I’d so far in my 29 years managed to avoid, despite me going to Karaoke bars all the time back home. I bellowed out track after track, egged on by the Rock God (Another Super Hero identity from the man known to the people as Jamie Carter) and his Mercury like performance.

After the event was over, throats were dry, eyes were tired, most of the crew left for home. But it was only 4:30am, the night had more to offer, so I met up with Tom and his party and went found another Noraebang to perform in. I got back to Jamie’s pad at about 7am, only a few minutes before the very tired Kim-Lee (Who had also shown off his great singing skills that evening) had to get up for work.

Now let me quickly move on and attempt to make you forget about all the drinking and show you that I did see some of what Seoul had to offer.

This is King Sejong, during his reign in 1443 invented the Korean alphabet Hangeul, which has been praised round the world for being a perfect and simple system that contains only 24 characters. It’s claimed that anyone can learn the alphabet in a day, although I can’t prove the claim correct as I didn’t have a straight day to try, I was, erm, far too busy sight seeing.

It was also autumn time in Korea, which proved to be a fantastic season for taking photos (something that I’m enjoying more and more now) as the leaves were falling from the trees and the browns and red hues dominated the landscape.

I’ll leave it at that, for Seoul. I’d just like to thank Jamie and Kim-Lee for letting me stay at their place. I’d also like to thank their friends for showing me what a good night out (or 5) is like in Seoul, you’ve all left your mark.

*added for effect

Onward to country number 4

Sorry if we have been somewhat lacklustre in blogging for a couple of weeks. A fortnight on the razz in South Korea can break even the most hardened of trailblazers, luckily myself and Dean are no longer subjected to the temptations of Soju, Fantastic Korean Cuisine and Glow in the dark 10 pin bowling. We both have friends in Seoul and my friend there Lena, got wind that we were in the far east and said we should come visit, in fact she said “If you are over this side of the world you can damn well visit me you mot#^&^*(%er!!!”. I realised that we should probably go so we did.

First of all though I’ll briefly go through our trip there. We left Haerbin 3 weeks ago but on our trip to the train Station we met a guy from Greenland, the first Greenlander Greenlandonian Greenlandic person we’d seen. As an ambassador for the biggest island on the planet he was I think perfect. Here he is:

He spoke Greenlandic, Danish, German and English fluently. Was in China to study Chinese, had a Japanese girlfriend and was a member of his countries Thai Boxing team. He was also completely smashed, although in keeping with the international theme he was smashed on Russian Vodka prepared in the Swedish fashion, the bottle was from Hong Kong and the label was in French. After 10 minutes we left him and he downed the remainder of his bottle along with a bar of chocolate to hide the taste.

We then went to Dalian again, and bought the Ferry tickets to South Korea. We stayed in a Hotel for the first time since Nizhny Novogorod way back in early September. It was on the 27th floor of a big block of flats so we got a couple of nice photos. It also minged, the Chinese definition of 3 star is loose at best, at least we had hot water, for the first 2 minutes anyway.

We took the opportunity while there to go to the beach and eat Seafood (well I did, Dean had beef). The beach was really nice and I can only speculate on how packed it gets in summer, but I imagine it’s like sardines.

The next day we got up early and got on the Ferry to Incheon. It was nice to go via a different mode of transport and the sea was really smooth, I took the opportunity to sit out on deck and look at clear pollution free skies for the first time in ages.

When we arrived in Seoul, I went to stay with Lena and Dean with his friend Jamie, it was to be the first time we’d been apart for over 2 months. I’d say it was a heart-wrenching moment but it wasn’t.

In search of the Siberian Tiger

The original reason for going to Haerbin was to go to the Siberian Tiger sanctuary there where they have a breeding programme in hope of re-releasing the tigers back into the wild to swell the population of this very endangered species of great cat. There are only 400 or so left in the wild which is a dangerously low population.

We left the hostel and got on the bus which took us to near the park. Unfortunately we had no idea at which stop to get off, our Chinese is negligible (I can say “Thank You”, “I don’t speak Chinese” and “Kiss my a$&#”) , and the bus did not end at where it had appeared to on the map that we had left at the hostel. So, after getting off the bus we decided to go left for luck.

We didn’t get to the Tiger park but we did see a goat.

After several hours wandering about getting nowhere, we got a bus back into Haerbin and went back to the hostel.

The next day we stashed our bags at the train station and did the sensible thing, we got a taxi. This time we arrived at the Tiger park. It was full of tourists (mainly Chinese and Russian), and struck me as more or a tourist trap than a conservation site, especially taking into account that you can pay several yuan to feed chickens/sheep and cows to the tigers. We also saw a sign that told us the history of the tigers in quite possibly the funniest Chinglish yet.

Kids, look away now:

We then got into a tour bus with caged windows and went into the park proper. There were lots of tigers, and they are huge, 2 metres long at least. The breeding programme there has at least been very successful, although how many if any are released into the wild I don’t know and where the merits of creating Ligers (Lion/Tiger crossbreeds) for anything other that the amusement of tourists comes I don’t know. How ever I won’t detract from the fact that these cats are impressive and watching one feed on a chicken was pretty awesome. Below are a few Tiger photos.

In this park were also Lions (way smaller than Tigers and anybody who says a Lion would beat a Tiger in a fight clearly doesn’t know what they’re talking about and should be shouted down, especially considering that Tigers (Siberian ones in particular) have been known to eat Brown Bears).

,panthers (if you want to know more about them, and they are panthers, then you should ask Dean’s mate Troy)

and mine and Deans’ favourite; the mutant White Tigers.

A lot of the tigers were kept caged and I’m not sure how much it’s for me, I’m not a fan of zoos in general (as opposed to sanctuaries, safari parks etc), and my tree-hugging hippy side doesn’t like to see animals caged. I do know that this park has helped double the Siberian Tiger population though, but to what ends remains to be seen. I am really glad I went though.

And as a lighthearted afterthought, we got a lift back to the bus stop off an old lady riding a motorised 3 wheeled wheelbarrow/motorbike type thing sat atop a pile of wood with nails in it.

Haer-brrrrrrrrrrr-in

We arrived in the cold northern city of Haerbin, with the now typical early wakeup call from the carriage attendant on the train, although we’d gained the better understanding of just staying in bed and sleeping for the final hour of the train journey.

Haerbin is very northern and cold (we’ve been more north in other countries, but winter is coming now, and the difference can be felt), but that didn’t stop us hardened Salford lads from walking out of the train station in our t-shirts. We soon learned though, it’s better to wear coats and hats, if not for the temperature, then certainly to stop the locals constantly approaching us and feeling our arms (Crazy t-shirt wearing westerners).

So we’d decided to spend a few days here, giving a break from the train journeys and a chance to go and see the Siberian Tigers at the safari park and tiger sanctuary.

So we headed off to find a hostel to stay in, grabbed a much needed shower and then headed back into town to see what else the place had to offer (it was too late to visit the tigers that day). After a quick wonder round the market, Tom read that there was a roller disco nearby and how great it would be to spend a Wednesday afternoon skating round with a load of Chinese people to some random dance music. I’ll admit that I didn’t take the proposition entirely seriously. But by chance we bumped into a couple from the hostel while grabbing some food in Mr. Lee’s California Beef Noodle (not a great chain of eateries, I wouldn’t really recommend it), and they also had decided to go to the roller disco; so the decision was made, we were going to strap on some wheels and spend the afternoon looking like idiots.

After some initial wobblings, we were off, well actually not, we quickly decided that a beer of confidence was in order.

Then we were off. Tom seemed to get into the groove quite quickly, whizzing around like an arthritic hamster. I didn’t quite have the knack, my feet moved, but I wasn’t propelled forward at any more than a doped-up snails pace. Being over taken by the local skaters doing their backwards spins, one-legged slaloms and general smart-arsedness didn’t help with my confidence, but another beer sorted that out.

It was a great way to spend the afternoon, totally unexpected thing to do, and I’m more than willing to go back and try again (I won’t be defeated, one day I will propel myself forward at speed and with grace).

We decided to have a wonder round the streets to see what else was on offer; didn’t take long before we spotted this fantastic piece of art, I think it might have been done by one of the early renaissance artists (Leonardo, Michaelangelo or Tony Hart).