Archive for May, 2008

A Sample of Jungle Life

We left Kotu Bharu extremely early, like 5:30 ‘oh look there’s the milk man’ early. It was questionable as to whether it was worth going to bed the night before, as it was the same night that Chelsea took on Arsenal in the Champions League (I’m sorry, more football talk). Read the rest of this entry »

Kotu Bharu Reprise

As I mentioned in the last entry, I left the Perhintians shoeless and slightly weirded out that someone would take such a battered pair of sweaty sandals. I actually had the idea that it was the island’s cats; but I’ll keep my theories of cat world domination to myself, or at least save them for a more appropriate place.

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Perhentian

As I mentioned last time, I wasn’t intending on visiting any more islands, but the call of football forced me back onto another ferry and another beautiful white beach tropical paradise.

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Moving to Malaysia

Leaving Koh Samui, I didn’t have a plan of how to get to Malaysia, nor did I have any sort of guide book. So I figured that if I just keep on moving south I’ll eventually get there (That’s logical right?).

After the first bus reached the end of the line I was left wondering around some street, in some town, in Thailand. I figured that I’d walk around for a while to see what was there, and any signs that would help me get further south.

I’d not walked twenty meters before I came across a tourist information and ticket shop, how very convenient. So I popped in, said to the woman behind the counter that I wanted to get to Malaysia and she said that I’d need to get a bus, then a train. The bus she informed me would be arriving in ten minutes, and it would take around five hours to get to the town with the train station. So I went ahead and bought the ticket before jumping onboard and setting off from the town I had no idea of the name of, going to another town which I also had no idea of the name. Travelling is so fun and random sometimes, things always work out, often not in ways that you’d predict, but it always seems to work out.

I sat and entertained myself on the bus by reading Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island for the five or so hour journey before being dropped off in a town I later found out was called Hat Yai. After getting off the bus I met up two other travellers who were also travelling down to Malaysia. Being a little more informed than me (only a little mind), I found out that the train leaving for Malaysia wasn’t due till the next day, so an over night stay was in order.

And with that a new group was formed; consisting of Paul, a 54 year old from Suffolk, embarking on his first real journey outside of the UK, Vicki, from Ascot (That place with the horse racing) and myself.

We spent the evening in Hat Yai, which was quite a fun place, shame we didn’t stay for longer really, but the train south called, and the next morning we boarded the air-con carriage to pastures new (when I say Air-con, I mean the windows of the train were all open letting in a steady flow of hot air).

The journey was long, and not entirely comfortable, having to spend most of it sat on my backpack as there were no seats available. We kept ourselves entertained though, by watching the growing number of armed guards and heavily armoured check points (Southern Thailand is in a bit of a mess at the moment, with daily attacks and civil unrest), as well as eating boiled quail eggs and soy sauce.

I’ll fast forward to Kota Bharu now, which is the place we eventually arrived at in Malaysia. It was so obviously a different place from where we’d just come from in Thailand due to the state of Kelentan being a Muslim area. The initial differences were the head scarf wearing females, and the lack of bars and alcohol. But, thanks to the Chinese, beer was still available in a select few restaurants and hidden away bars.

Many people use Kota Bharu as a quick stop off point before moving on to the Perhentian Islands, but with the three month visa issued, it seemed silly to pass a place by so quickly when time wasn’t an issue, and I’m so glad we decided to stick around.

We took a visit to the local tourist information centre to find out what events and places of interest there were to see. We were met there with the local tourist guru Roselan, a guy that I can only presume attended the short lived John Inman School of English. He gave us a list of things to see in the area as well as offering us a cookery evening at his home (something we later took him up on).

One of the recommended places was the local culture centre, were they put on displays of traditional Malaysian arts every few days.

After a few days of chilling out, enjoying Kota Bharu and sneakily going to the Chinese bars for some beer I agreed to do something that I didn’t want to do, again! Paul and Vicki were off to visit the Perentian Islands (NOT MORE ISLANDS! With thier palm trees, white sand, clear blue waters etc…). I was determined not to go at first, but then the fact of football came to mind, and that it was nearing the end of season. With Kota Bharu not having many bars, watching football there wasn’t easy, so armed with my Man U shirt, I agreed to go.

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Going Down South…

Not wanting to stay in Bangkok for too long, I didn’t want to fall back into the ‘Khao San Road Thing’, I decided to move South, in the direction of Malaysia. Amanda still had Cambodia on her list of places to visit, so we parted company and she began to work her way over to see the delights of Angkor Wat; Actually, it’s a story of Tom’s and mine that you’ve all still yet to hear, and I promise that one day (When Tom finally gets round to putting the photos on Flickr– Hint Hint) that you’ll all hear our tales from that part of the world.

I didn’t want to take a trip straight to Malaysia, so I looked into breaking up the journey by stopping somewhere along the way. The travel agent I used pointed me in the direction of Koh Samui, an Island off the mid-south east of Thailand. I didn’t intend to visit any more islands so soon after the recent trip to the Philippines, but the cost worked in Samui’s favour so I agreed to go.

The journey from Bangkok to the port town of Chumphon was on a sleeper bus, which proved to be not as comfortable as the ones in China due to their more upright chairs; but it was a far cry from ‘The Bus Ride From Hell’ though, which I was thankful for.

While waiting at Chumphon I met up with two English guys, or as they’d say ‘Old boys’ (Maybe it’s a Northhampton thing). They were also a little clueless when it came to plans, so we decided to group up and venture forth– clueless together.

Koh Samui quickly revealed itself to be a tourist resort island, catering for the two week holiday makers and male tourists hunting for the more seedier side of Thailand. With that though, we were still determined to have some fun despite the lack of any great Thai culture to seek out. So we checked out a map of the island and looked for anywhere that might prove to be enjoyable to go and see.

We figured that it would be a good idea to have a wonder round the local area and try to get our bearings. There were many things you’d expect to see in such a holiday makers paradise, shops, bars, food stalls, nothing really stand out. That was until we turned down one particular road. We walked about halfway down before ‘they’ started to emerge, and we were too deep in to turn back, the only option was to press on and quickly get to the end of the road. We’d somehow stumbled down ladyboy bar road, and they sniffed us out like the weak little prey we were. We took the obvious precautions, not to look them in the eye, not to respond to the taunts and to just keep on walking. They smelt our fear though, playing with our emotions they called and beckoned us to go in for a drink. When we didn’t respond they even began running over and slapping our backsides as we hurriedly walked on. Eyes forward like a blinkered horse we pressed onward.

We eventually made it passed the bars and to the freedom beyond. But something wasn’t right, the road, it didn’t seem to be going anywhere. We found a local and asked him if there was a way out if we continued onwards, he didn’t give us the answer we looked for, only telling us that the way we came was the only way out. We had to walk back down that street.

After going through the ordeal again, we decided that we didn’t want to be caught out like that any more, and the best solution was to rent mopeds, which would enable us to both get around the island as we pleased, it’s only about an hour and half to travel around the perimeter, and to quickly drive past any undesirable places without further torment.

I’m afraid that I was a little lax in the photography department while staying here, mainly due to me wearing shorts with no pockets, thus having no where to put the camera. There are a few choice photos that I’ll share with you all though.

Our first local site to seek out was Grandfather Rock and Grandmother Rock, or Hin Ta and Hin Yai to the locals. These  two rocks as you might notice resemble male and female naughty bits, which has proved to be quite popular for the tourists to come along and take photos.

After gawping at the natural formations of rude parts we hopped back on to our bikes and went to seek out the jungle at the inner part of the island. We turned up a small dirt road, which quickly became a very very steep dirt road, proving a very tough task for the bikes to climb, but they made it (just). The path then continued to twist and turn, past many families homes and deep vegetation. Eventually we found our way to a restaurant in the middle of nowhere, which offered amazing views of the island from it’s high placement. So we stopped, ate burgers before deciding to head back down to the coast and round to whatever next caught our fancy.

This however didn’t quite work out, we followed a road down to where we thought would lead back to the coast, only to find a military base and a Thai soldier standing at a sort of road block holding a rather offensive looking assault rifle. We tried to ask him which way it was back to the coast, but he didn’t understand, rather he just waved his gun and we quickly turned and drove off the way we came.

We were a little confused as to which way would take us back, so we decided to try and head in the right direction, hoping that the road would follow suit and lead us to freedom. It didn’t, we went round and round, turning on to more and more rockier and offroad style tracks, which our bikes really weren’t made to navigate over.

For three hours we drove round this jungle, watching the sun slowly begin to set, while listening to Ben’s moaning’s of how his petrol gauge was deep in the red. Eventually after an incredibly difficult drive we arrived at a sort of farm; well a building with a tractor and two kids playing with their little BMX bikes. We found the woman that owned the place and asked her how to get out of this jungle, in very broken English she directed us down this path, and gave us a route to follow. We thanked her and set off on our way. We followed the path, only to find that it lead us right back to near where we started; after three hours we gone in the craziest of circles around the jungle (Just a reminder that I said it only takes an hour and half to drive around the islands perimeter).

We continued back, asking another local which way we should go from there, he told us to follow the road, so we did, ending back at the military base, this time however lacking the soldier and his gun. So we drove past the road block, and low and behold we arrived back into civilization!

So as it turns out, we originally went the right way after all, just the lack of communication, and the scary looking weapon, made us go on an unexpected jungle safari.

There wasn’t much else that we did on Koh Samui apart from sun bathe and swim in the clear blue sea. So we decided to hop over to the next island to see what was going on there.

We travelled up to Big Buddha Jetty and took the short ferry ride to Koh Pha Ngan, home to the many beach parties and all night dance events.

By this time I was really feeling ‘island’d out’, crazy as it sounds, it’s actually possible to see too many white sand and clear blue sea places, many be it’s just me.

I had to stick around for a few days though as New Year was just about to happen and travel would have been hard to do at that time. So I bit my lip and forced myself to sun bathe and swim in those fine warm blue waters, life is bloody tough sometimes.

New Year was great fun, it’s celebrated as a water festival, which basically translates to one huge water fight (with talc thrown in for good measure). The streets were lined with people armed with buckets, water guns and any other device capable of launching H2O at passersby.

As the day turned to night the party moved over to the beach, where the music played till dawn.

Sadly I only have a few photos of Kph Pha Ngan as my new water proof camera decided that it no longer wanted to be water proof and took a mouth full of salt water as I went out for a swim.

Here’s the last photo it ever took.

So after New Year I stuck around for another day recovering from the festivities before getting a ferry back to the main land and working my way down to Malaysia.

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